Shamanic Sweat Lodge

Last Sunday I went to a sweat lodge with a group of friends.  Earlier in the year, my friend introduced me to a shaman, and ever since, I have been a frequent visitor.

We all met near San Blas on Sunday morning.  Kush came down to meet us and drive us up to his house.  Seven of us piled into the back of his white jeep and began the bumpy trek up the winding mountain– the houses growing more and more distant as we made our ascent.

None of my friends have ever met Kush before or gone to his house, so they weren’t sure what to expect.  I didn’t know what to expect either since I had never been to a sweat lodge.  When we arrived, Kush’s helpers were stoking the fire and setting up a canopy outside with a table underneath for lunch after the ceremony.

The actual structure in which we were going to sit was a circular stone bench, low to the ground and big enough to fit around 25 people.  The wall was about 3 feet tall.  Blankets and tarps strapped across the top, eliminating any chance for light or air to filter in.  I wasn’t sure I was going to be able to breathe at all inside.  When the stones were ready, we began the ceremony.  We lined up outside of the lodge, and Allen, Kush’s apprentice, was smudging with smoke.  He then told us that if we wished to connect with the energy of the Cosmos, to walk in a circle counter-clockwise, and if we wished to connect with the energy of the Earth, we could walk in a circle clockwise.

Most of us walked clockwise and ended the walk with a crawl into the darkness of our hibernation.  We filled up every empty space inside, and Kush brought in his 1 and 1/2 year old daughter–Cusi ( which means joy in Quechua).

In the center of the circle, there was a pit to hold stones that were going to be brought in from the fire outside.  The stones (known as abuelos or grandfathers) were brought in four groups of seven to honor each of the four cardinal directions.  Each group was brought in and handled with the antlers of some type of deer.  When the first group was brought in, Kush poured water over them, releasing steam over all of us.  Our breathing simultaneously grew louder.  We all had instruments and listened to the drumming of whoever wanted to play.  This was a space of opening and sharing, of being the primal human outside of the world of time and structure.  Everything inside was pitch black so insecurities could be shed with relief and without hesitation.

Tears started streaming and rolling.  Screams were let out–healing began.  We all recognized this as a safe space to let go of all the judgment and self-doubt we’ve been taught to accept since we were young.  Any vocal crescendo was contagious.  Pretty soon we were all howling like wolves in the night–releasing any past conditioning we were ready to let go of.

When the last group was brought in (after about 2 hours),  I knew that this was the last round I could stand to take.  My eyes were like jelly at this point.  I had to surrender into everything my body was feeling.

Kush shouted “Puerta!” for the fourth and final time.  Allen opened the blanket covering the door, as I crawled out I was met by his smiling face in the open air.   I said to him, “I feel like I’ve just emerged from the womb.”  He laughed and said, “I think that’s the point.”

I immediately crawled over to Lolo, the dog, and laid next to him and stared up at the muffled gray sky, listening to the stubborn thunder in the distance.  A light rain started to drizzle, and after everyone was out, we all gathered around a huge bucket of water and dowsed ourselves with it.  We then slowly moved inside to eat a delicious meal cooked for us by Kush’s family and friends.

The sweat lodge offered us a chance to realize a connection to our animal side–a connection to the place in ourselves that existed before we were ever told we weren’t good enough. That raw, creative, uninhibited energy.  And that energy still exists in all of us, but some are numbed by the constant repetition of  expectations of how one should act, how one should think, and so many more soul-depriving restrictions.

Those seeking redemption will find it.  It can be found anywhere–a sweat lodge in the Cusco Valley of Peru, the mountains of Montana, or the lakes of New York.  Healing is afforded to anyone willing to sit a little more quietly and breathe a little more deeply.

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A Minute in Madrid

Two months from today, I’ll be back on a plane headed towards New York City and that is something I cannot wrap my head around. It seems like a lot of time, but essay, assignment, and application deadlines mark the time a little too neatly.

The Spanish sense of time is very, very different from that of New York City. The past two summers I have had the honor of interning at organizations in downtown and midtown New York, respectively, and receiving an hour lunch breaks. In both of these areas, you cannot go one block without at least two or three food establishments and a few shopping stores. Those hour-long lunch breaks fragment into: 30 minutes for eating, 15 minutes for walking, 5 minutes for window shopping. Every second that you wait at the crosswalk is a second you’re losing on your lunch break or a second that you could be late to an important meeting; this explains the hoards of business-attire-wearing men and women scurrying past honking yellow taxi cabs during green traffic lights. This is New York City, 24/7, 365 days a year.

At most pedestrian crosswalks in Madrid, you have to play a game of “who’s going to cross first?” with the cars and buses, but, thankfully, drivers show a lot of respect, so no need to really worry. This being said, there’s an obvious difference in patience and pace of life, but understandably so: I’m no longer at the center of corporate America. Even though the economic situation isn’t so good in this part of the Eurozone (Italy, Spain, Portugal and Greece), even though Spain is “less happy” than it reportedly was five to eight years ago, the picture painted in the media is a bit more bleak than I see it before me. Here’s a day a Madrid as I’ve come to know:

In the morning, bar tenders are really your average, friendly restaurant servers, serving porras (big churros) with Cola-Cao (Nesquik-like chocolate milk) and/or zumo de naranja (fresh orange juice) to other adults stopping by on their way to work. While the employed are working and the young ones are at school, tourists, street entertainers, college students, and the non-employed make up the hustle and bustle of the city. Even during the work day, the madrileños are out and about. For lunch time, bars offer their menú del día: an appetizer, a main course, desert, some bread and your choice of wine or water–all for usually 10-12 euro. Whether this is too much food or totally worth the “bang for your buck” is up to you, but remember, your Spanish friends won’t want to get dinner until past 9 p.m.  If you’re lucky, you’ll have time to enjoy the siesta either in your own bed or laying down out in a nearby park, probably El Retiro (the “Central Park” of Madrid). We’re almost at the end of October and it’s only just starting to get chilly, so bring a light sweater if you plan on staying outdoors. Come evening, you’ll have finished your homework (right? 😉 ) and will be able to enjoy the night outdoors. Dinner in it’s cheapest form are the sacred tapas (small, inexpensive portions of food), raciones are a step up in portion size, and if you’re really hungry you can just buy a meal but that might cost a bit more. When the clock strikes midnight, the young adults pour out to the city. Nightlife in Madrid mainly consists of bars , some with live music, and discotecas/clubs. The night typically extends to 4 a.m., even as late (or early) as 6 a.m….a phenomena I have not gotten accustomed to after my two months here., but props to my foreign exchange counterparts  who have. I’m not saying it’s sustainable to live this way every day as a college student, but you’ll find yourself adapting to this schedule sooner or later (except getting home so late.) Just like at home, there are pizza shops open for when you get a bit hungry on your way home. My roommate calls it re-cenar (second dinner), sort of like Taco Bell’s “fourth meal.” 😀

Churros con chocolate is the Spanish breakfast-treat equivalent of pancakes with coffee in the U.S. This was at the reknown Chocolatería San Ginés, right off Calle Arenal.

This is what a porra looks like, a delicious enlargement of the delicious but smaller churros. Porra smiley!

A delicious plate of huevos rotos: homemade potato chips topped with eggs sunny-side up and ham bits. This was the TASTIEST plate of food I’ve had in my time here in Madrid. The place is called Taberna Almendro 13 located in La Latina, definitely check it out!

After walking past this place so many times, my friends brought to my attention that this is the oldest restaurant in the world. I peered in the window of Sobrino de Botín and saw the Guinness Book of Records certificate, dating the establishment back to 1725! Check out Yelp reviews to see if you’re interested 🙂

“We may not have much money, but at least we’ve got enough for our bread, wine and cheap tapas,” joked on of my Spanish professors. Though it’s very difficult to keep financial struggles from affecting one’s daily outlook I’m pleased to see how Spaniards strive to make the best of their days. History is splashed all around me leaving me no choice but to dive in and join them. Whether it’s walking around Getafe to take in the olive oil aroma in the air around lunch time or sitting on the cobblestone ground of Plaza Mayor or scoring free sangria around Calle de las Huertas, there is a lively calm in the midst of Madrid that makes it a place like no other.

 

From Granada to La Sagrada

The past couple of weekends have involved some major movements for me: two weeks ago I traveled south to Granada and this past weekend I traveled north to Zaragoza and Barcelona. Both trips involved seeing some REALLY beautiful sites, both historic and modern.

Granada

Five and a half hours south of Madrid (by bus) awaited the lovely Andalusia (the most populated autonomous community in Spain!). To keep our spending at a low, a couple friends and I decided to stay in a hostel and truth be told, this was my first time ever staying at a hostel. To give you a sense of location, our hostel was located right in the center of Granada, about five minutes from Granada’s famous cathedral.

 

On our way to Calle Reyes Católicos, the main street to get to the historic quarters, we saw this stand of delicious "frutos secos" (dried fruits, dried vegetables, even dried squid!).

On our way to Calle Reyes Católicos, the main street to get to the historic quarters, we saw this stand of delicious “frutos secos” (dried fruits, dried vegetables, even dried squid!).

These delicious, fluffy and creamy treats are a dessert delicacy in Granada, but can also be found in parts of Latin America.

These delicious, fluffy and creamy treats are a dessert delicacy in Granada, but can also be found in parts of Latin America.

By simply looking around and walking through the streets, it’s clear to see Granada’s still-present strong Arab influence. There’s all sorts of beautiful jewelery, tapestry, scarfs, and clothing to pick from! (Definitely plenty of harem or “hippie” pants, which I now own a pair 😉 )

A beautiful mountain-top view of the Alhambra Palace.

A beautiful mountain-top view of La Alhambra.

A world-famous, guidebook-worthy photo of a reflective pool inside the Alhambra Palace.

A world-famous, guidebook-worthy photo of a reflective pool inside La Alhambra.

Barcelona

I hopped on a bandwagon of friends headed away for the weekend and wound up on an overpriced, not-so-organized “organized” erasmus bus trip to Barcelona. Although I absolutely do not regret visiting this beautiful city, I definitely recommend skipping out on randomly-organized group trips. The service/person who took us on this trip wasn’t a good event planner, making for a messy trip that we (the travelers) had to take control of for ourselves. One of the things that I did like about this trip was our stop in Zaragoza, the midway-point between Madrid and Barcelona, for the Fiestas de Pilar: one of Spain’s biggest festivals, dedicated to the patron saint of Zaragoza, Pilar! The old and young alike celebrate the saint with festivities the week of October 12th, with musical presentations, contests and other events put on the day of the holiday.

Crowds of people in the streets with the Basilica de Pilar in the background.

Crowds of people in the streets with the Basilica de Pilar in the background.

We made it to Barcelona in the evening, rested a bit at our budget hotel and then went to the boardwalk for the evening, which was cool! The following day a group of us visited La Sagrada Familia, a Catholic church designed by the famous Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí. The interior and exterior were both amazing, providing a mix of awe and tranquility.  We walked around to see some other historic sites and made it to the famous street called La Rambla. The street livens up at nighttime when street vendors open up shop and sell unique-crafts. If you keep walking straight down this street, you’ll eventually hit the beach! But beware, although it didn’t happen to me, I’ve heard this street is famous for pickpockets.

The older facade of La Sagrada Famila, which has been in continuous construction since 1882. It's totally worth getting the cheap audio-tour at the entrance to learn about this beautiful place!

The older facade of La Sagrada Famila, which has been in continuous construction since 1882. It’s totally worth getting the cheap audio-tour at the entrance to learn about this beautiful place!

La Rambla at any point in the day is nice for a stroll. Be sure to try one of the waffle treats at one of the vendors.

La Rambla at any point in the day is nice for a stroll. Be sure to try one of the waffle treats at one of the vendors.

This

This was in Gaudí’s famous Parque Guell, a fantastical park with all sorts of twists, colors, and cool architecture. We took a photo with this famous Salamander–the tiles are signature to Gaudí’s work–but I especially get a kick out of the older man’s face in the background. Oh, us tourists.

In case you guys would like to see more photos, I’ll be working on setting up a link for you. The awesomeness of these two weekend trips do not fit into one text post.  I 100% recommend that wherever you’re studying, make the most out of getting to know the country you’re in. I don’t know if my budget will allow for a full-on Eurotrip but at the very least, I’ve visited some astounding places in Spain. That being said, get to know the city you’ll be in. Get lost. You’ll find amazing restaurants, cafes, street art, shops and maybe even people (what a concept!) along the way.

Bien Urbain – The graffiti of Besançon

Splashed onto walls and etched into foundation, Bien Urbain is a modern artistic movement in Besançon. Some pieces are dark while others are a bright surrealism. Below, you’ll find some art and reactions to my favorite pieces. Enjoy!

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Dream like bodies are drained upwards swimming towards some unseen destination. The nakedness and the black and white color might represent desire – always wanting to move in some direction “upwards”.

 

 

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“I would like no more than to never work”

 

Phrases like this are hidden all around the city. Another one of my preferred pieces, this etching and the intention behind all the other sentences expresses an honesty within our selves that one needs to be willing to discover.

The truth is hard to look at – and even harder to find.

 

 

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Originally this ditch was meant to be something – maybe a building or a park. But for reasons I couldn’t understand the construction was cancelled.

“Pardon” was written jokingly to mean “Excuse me for this.”

 

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A façade on the side of this building.

 

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The artist who created this is called 108 (Cent Huit)

 

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Created as a homage to old advertisements, it translates as “Painting the old”

 

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I love this one a lot. The houses are Asian inspired. My thoughts? I don’t really know yet…

 

 

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“In fact, I’m truly superficial”

 

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“OH” – 108

I find this to be really fascinating and cool. To make this sound in French it’s necessary to have a consonant after the vowel. If it was just O it would be succinct. Though, with the H to cap it, it draws out the sound to be more like “Ohh”.
I see the colors as the connection in sound, starting with a hard vowel and ending in a voiceless consonant that pulls the sound a little further.

 

Thanks for reading!

No Gov, No PSL

For the time that I’ve been here, my main concern as an American has been the poor dollar-to-euro exchange…but on a MUCH less serious note, my next main concern has been that Starbucks España doesn’t offer my beloved pumpkin spice latte (PSL.) Although the autumn chill only recently hit Madrid (about a week and it’s still in the 70s !), Tumblr, Facebook and all clothing websites have kindly reminded me it’s time for crunchy leaves, warm sweaters, and pumpkin-flavored everything. I love making treats from scratch and there are plenty of PSL-recipes that I’m sure I could stir up whenever I want. But it’s just not the same. #AmericanProblems

Well, I planned on writing this post a couple weeks ago, but homework and traveling have gotten in the way (boy, am I lucky enough to say that!), but it seems that now is finally time to put together this post. Why? Well…

“[Starting Monday October 1, 2013] the US government has begun shutting its non-essential services. Hundreds of thousands of workers are waking up to the news that they are on unpaid leave, and they don’t know how long it will last….The Federal government had no choice. The US financial year ended on 30 September, and politicians on Capitol Hill have failed to agree a new budget for the 2013-2014 financial year….No, it’s not an anarchist’s (or libertarian’s?) dream. Essential services, such as social security and Medicare payments, will continue. The US military service will keep operating, and Obama signed emergency legislation on Monday night to keep paying staff. But hundreds of thousands of workers at non-essential services, from Pentagon employees to rangers in national parks, will be told to take an unpaid holiday.” (The Guardian)

“It is the first shutdown in 17 years and the dollar fell early on Tuesday.” (BBC News)

Major Spanish news sources have been very objective on reporting the politics of the  government shutdown, but their focus remains on issues like the halt of scientific research, and  the closing of national parks and major tourist sites like the Statue of Liberty. I don’t have many international-relations-major Spanish friends so no one has yet to bring up the shutdown. According to NPR, “the president warns that the whole world is watching this drama and the reviews are not good. ‘It makes us look like we don’t have our act together,’ said President Obama.” Maybe I’ll be the one to start asking my peers some questions…

Even still, living outside of the United States is a real eye-opener. The U.S. is a baby on the historical timeline, we are a world super power and are highly regarded (most Spanish people’s eyes light up when they hear I’m from New York). It seems that most college students understand that neither the United States, Spain nor any other country is perfect and that our systems of government might not have it all together, but in the end we’re here to make a difference. Since I’m often busy while I’m at college, it’s not as easy to put my own worries aside to follow national and international news, but now I make time to pay attention to what’s going on. Better late than never.For those of you also traveling,  tune into NYTimes, NPR, and BBC News and while in Spain El Pais, El Mundo, and The Local for easy-going Spanish news in English.)

In terms of infrastructure (irrigation, public transportation, roads, potable water, etc.), it isn’t very difficult making the transition from being in the U.S. to being in Spain. Though shops closing for the siesta has taken some getting used to and not having my dear Starbucks pumpkin spice latte this season is a bummer, this semester abroad is a great time to think about the country I’m in,  the country I come from, and the world as one big smorgasbord of ideas.

*Note: The pumpkin spice latte is more a symbol of the season than an actual obsession, I promise.

[UPDATE: 10/17/13: “The US government partial shutdown is over after 16 days. Hundreds of thousands of workers were laid off, businesses have been hurt, and the standing of US credit in the eyes of the world was severely impacted.” (BBC News)

My best friend, who currently attends American University, is working on her thesis and wasn’t able to go to the Library of Congress to access the resources she needed until the furlough was over. Though is the closest person to me that’s been affected by the government shutdown, I fear my whole country will be feeling the effects.]